Locally Owned. Family-Run. Trusted by Long Island Pool Owners for 25+ Years.

Weekly shock oxidizes sunscreen, sweat, and organics that tablets can’t remove alone. It restores sanitizer strength, prevents chloramine “chlorine smell,” and keeps algae from gaining a foothold after heavy use, heat, or rain. For most Long Island pools: shock at dusk, run the pump overnight, brush, and retest in the morning. Maintain FC 2–4 ppm (salt 3–5), pH 7.4–7.6, and CYA 30–50 ppm.

pH controls chlorine efficiency and comfort. Low pH (<7.2) corrodes metals/heaters; high pH (>7.8) scales and clouds water. Keep 7.4–7.6 so chlorine works 5–10× better. Buffer with total alkalinity 80–120 ppm and keep calcium 200–300 ppm (plaster on the higher end).

Cyanuric acid shields chlorine from sunlight. Too low and FC burns off; too high and chlorine is less effective. Target 30–50 ppm (salt up to ~70). If CYA creeps high from tablets, dilute with a partial drain/refill and supplement chlorination with liquid or a salt system.

Start with ~1 trichlor tablet (8 oz) per 5k–10k gallons per week in a floater/feeder (not the skimmer). Monitor FC 2–4 ppm and watch CYA rise from tabs. Use weekly shock, and consider liquid/salt if CYA trends too high.

Yes. Add small amounts with the pump running, wait 30–60 minutes, then retest. Target total alkalinity 80–120 ppm (plaster closer to 100–120). If you need to raise pH substantially, use soda ash first, then fine-tune TA with baking soda.

Evening/dusk. UV won’t burn chlorine off, and overnight circulation maximizes results. Brush surfaces, run the pump, and test FC before swimming. After parties, storms, or visible algae, use a stronger dose and run 24 hours.

Most routine adds: 15–30 minutes with the pump running. After shock: wait until free chlorine returns to 2–4 ppm (salt 3–5). Always follow label directions and retest before swimming.

Household bleach is ~6% sodium hypochlorite and may include additives; liquid pool shock is 10–12.5% and formulated for pools. Use fresh product (date codes matter), store cool/dark, and dose to strength. For algae or heavy loads, liquid shock is more efficient.

Choose based on chemistry: trichlor (adds CYA, acidic, slow), cal-hypo (adds calcium; great if CH is low), liquid (adds only chlorine/salt). We’ll recommend the best fit after a quick water test and review of your equipment.

Backwashing clears trapped debris so flow and clarity stay strong. Do it when filter pressure rises ~8–10 PSI above your recorded “clean” baseline. Don’t over-backwash; a slightly dirty bed filters better than a brand-new one. Top up water after backwashing.

Common culprits: torn grids/fingers, cracked manifold, bad standpipe O-ring, or overcharging DE. Shut down, rinse, inspect internals, replace worn parts, and recharge with the correct DE amount. Record “clean” PSI for future reference.

Plan for 1–2 turnovers/day. In midsummer most Long Island pools need 10–16 hours; shoulder seasons ~6–8. Variable-speed pumps can run longer at low RPM for energy savings. Adjust based on clarity, debris load, and chemistry.

Before you leave: balance water, top off tablets, add algaecide, clean/backwash the filter, and extend pump runtime. Use a floater/feeder (don’t load the skimmer). For trips over a week, ask for a mid-trip check. When you return, shock at dusk and brush to reset clarity quickly.

Phosphates are algae food. They don’t cause blooms alone, but high levels make outbreaks harder to control if chlorine dips. We test and, if elevated, treat with a remover while dialing in FC and run time.

Try the bucket test: place a bucket on a step, fill to match the pool waterline, mark both, and compare after 24–48 hours (pump off). If the pool drops more than the bucket, you likely have a leak. Note if loss changes with pump on/off—this helps pinpoint plumbing vs. shell/liner.

Every 2–4 weeks in season. Pro testing catches stabilizer, metals, combined chlorine, and trends that basic kits can miss—preventing staining, etching, and recurring cloudy water.